United Nations of Astoria – Arepas Cafe

Welcome to the United Nations of Astoria, a new column that will appear about once a month, written by food writer and local Astorian, Anne Noyes Saini, who is also the creative force behind the audio series Forgotten Foods of New York. Welcome, Anne! -Meg

In a borough renowned for its multi-culturalism (represent, Queens!), Astoria is home to a particularly diverse mix of cultures. Astorians from the Balkans, Bangladesh, Brazil, Colombia, Czech Republic/Slovakia, Egypt, Greece, Indonesia, Italy, Japan, Lebanon, Mexico, and even our southerly neighboring borough (that’s you, Brooklyn) rub shoulders everyday in the ‘hood. And you know what that means: excellent eating.  

At Arepas Café thick, pancake-like corn arepas are griddled until their outsides become slightly crispy, then slit like pitas, and stuffed with meat, cheese, beans, or vegetables.

But don’t confuse these Venezuelan-style arepas with their Colombian counterparts.

In Venezuela arepas are stuffed with a diverse array of savory fillings—a popular late-night snack. Colombian arepas—with butter, cheese, or eggs piled on top—are a hearty, comforting breakfast dish. At Arepas Café,the traditional roasted and shredded meat fillings (pernil—pork; and pabellón—beef) are always a good bet. So are the arepas stuffed with seafood (gazon—baby shark; and tuna), which are typical of owner Riccardo Romero’s home city, Carúpano, on Venezuela’s northeastern coast.

Amid the mostly meaty options, the vegetarian Guayanesa tropical arepa holds its own—bolstered by a rich combination of fried sweet plantains, creamy wedges of avocado, and firm, mild Guyanese cheese.

The arepas arrive at the table accompanied by two sauces: guasacaca (mayonnaise mixed with avocado, garlic and cilantro) and a Trinidadian hot sauce infused with Scotch bonnet peppers.

If you’re new to Venezuelan food, be sure to try the tequeños—finger-size sticks of mild, white cheese wrapped in a thin layer of dough, and deep-fried. These are Venezuela’s ubiquitous national snack, and at Arepas Café they are served in true Venezuelan style with salsa rosada (ketchup blended with mayonnaise). The mini cachapas, bite-size sweet corn pancakes topped with queso blanco (soft, white cheese) and a dab of nata (tangy, thick Venezuelan sour cream), are also very tasty—and very Venezuelan.

Wash down you meal with a sweet drink. I recommend the potent tropical sangria (tropical juices, fruit, and ample rum), the refreshing jugo de papelón con limón (brown-sugar-sweetened homemade lemonade), or the rich chicha (thick rice-pudding “shake” spiced with powdered cinnamon .

Or if you’re feeling playful, Arepas Cafe is one of the few places in NYC where you can score a Frescolita, Venezuela’s beloved, bubble-gum-flavored, pink soda.

Arepas Café, 33-07 36^th Avenue, Astoria, NY, 11106, (718) 937-3835, arepascafe.com

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Real Cheap Roundup, May 20: The Hamburger Month Edition - Real Cheap Eats NYC May 20th, 2013

[…] Astoria, kicks off her monthly segment, United Nations of Astoria, by shining the spotlight on Arepas Cafe’s Venezuelan-style arepas and other small […]

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